Yes, of course, the view from the shores of
Buyukada, quaint port on the small island of
Adalar, is gorgeous. Yes, the food and the minute shops crowded with wine and shampoo and jars of
Nescafe are good and fascinating. The moon over the sea, the dancing palm trees tucked here and there, the cascades of purple flowers dripping from balconies; yes, of course, they catch my breath and light my eyes with fascination. But the tails, the plethora of tails wagging and waving, are what have stolen my heart in
Buyukada.
To my delight and worry, the Turkish islands are brimming with stray cats and dogs. They lay on sidewalks, street corners and the very middle of vehicle prohibited lanes of tar. (Need a ride to the far reaches of
Adalar? Hire a horse cart.) The cats, especially, are everywhere. If you dine at an outdoor cafe, you will also dine with cats. Dine indoors and you will dine with cats as well. They are each on the prowl for tasty possibilities. And dear God, did they find a sucker in me.
Each cat is more precious than the last, and stand back when I've spotted one with
goopy eyes or fresh-scarred nose or half a missing ear. I'll give them most of my lunch. Taking my nutritional needs into his own hands, the Gypsy King bought extra lunches so I could not only fill my own belly, but cut chicken kabobs into baby-sized pieces and feed the troops at my feet.
Because the cats and dogs are meant to entice tourists to stay longer and part with more of their tourist dollars, the shops sell bags of pet food. So, me being me~ boldly stamped with 'sucker for animals' across my forehead~ I trolled the streets at nightfall with the ever protective Gypsy King and a 5 kilo bag of "Alice Snob" cat food, feeding all comers. Let me tell you, they came. Each mewling furry face got a handful and a "just look at how cute you are" and a "bless your little life" before bed. Even as we left the island behind this morning, a cat food trail marked our way to the ferry.
I worry for the animals of
Adalar. But I needn't. Each dog is tagged in its ear and water is found in bowls along the lanes. They disappear at night to what I hope are safe places. The cats, for the most part, look fed and like cats, they argue on the streets at 2am. But it seems that the good people of
Buyukada have agreed to care for these charges. They are a part of life on these Turkish isles. And a sweet tale to carry in my heart.
I have so much to tell you; of Turkish streets and shops and food and the non-stop, flawless weather. Of the sea, my newly beloved sea. But it will all have to wait. Because today, this bitter and sweet today, I leave for home. Yet, I also leave home behind.
The Hagia Sophia museum, Istanbul. Constructed as a basilica in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian.
My new friend, Yasmine, thinks I can do it. She thinks I can join her belly dance troupe and make scads of money like she does. Just a few lessons, she says, and I'll be jiggling and swaying my way to new found fortune and fame. She recommended the sapphire blue bead-dangled bra and veiled bikini bottom. To highlight my hair and distract from facial hot flashes. (No one will be looking at my face anyway, she says.) But I have to stop eating so much in Turkiye~love handles evidently get in the way of prosperity~ and I have to be totally comfortable with dressing half naked in public. Oh, and I'd have to switch to working at night. Wear more make-up. Tease my hair.
The Gypsy Flower Market~ an oasis in the concrete desert. Being a lover of flowers, I had to go.
I am here, by the sea, because of many things. Patience. Faith. Fortitude. Learning the hard lessons of listening to my own instincts, regardless of outer contradictions. Above all, allowing my true self to rise to the fore. This being by the sea is a story long in the making. Yet, it has only just begun.
Lunch.
The men's club. Starting at 7:30am. Turkish tea and backgammon.
Shoe shopping.
Produce market.
View from the rooftop lounge.
Yes, of course, the view from the shores of Buyukada, quaint port on the small island of Adalar, is gorgeous. Yes, the food and the minute shops crowded with wine and shampoo and jars of Nescafe are good and fascinating. The moon over the sea, the dancing palm trees tucked here and there, the cascades of purple flowers dripping from balconies; yes, of course, they catch my breath and light my eyes with fascination. But the tails, the plethora of tails wagging and waving, are what have stolen my heart in Buyukada.
Having the best time. Weather is great. Sunny and seventy. Am eating constantly. Had to get rid of belt. Beautiful sites. Crazy drivers. Love it all. Wish you were here. The Gypsy King of Babylon sends his very best.
We can be changed by many things; travel being one of them. When travel is combined with wholehearted openness to the new, the change within can be profound. When travel and openness are combined with the force of love, the change within is life altering. Irreversible. Hold-onto-your-hat-you-will-never-be-the-same. And you will be so damn glad.
There is a rooftop under a full moon, overlooking the sea. This rooftop is on the island of Adalar in the calm waters of Marmara. On this rooftop, tea is served. Not any tea, but tea that holds a spoon suspended it is so strong. Always served in a small glass cup. This robust nectar tastes best while sitting on the ledge of the rooftop, stars and moonlight reflected in its dark water. I am sitting on that rooftop. I am sipping and savoring that dark water. I am far from home. Yet.I am home.
